Univers-volvo

bon sale début d'année en perspective...


En arrivant devant chez moi, la fleche orange de boite auto s'est mise à clignoter au tdb, et les boutons S et W en alternance ..


Diagnoctics docteurs ?

D'autre symptomes ???

Elle démarre bien quand ça clignote ?
La boite fonctionne normalement ou comme si tu étais passé en mode winter ?

elle demarre sans probleme...


j'etais devant chez moi quand ca c'est produit, la marche arriere est passée sans probleme.


Aucune idée si elle fonctionne en mode w, ca me branche pas trop de la faire rouler avec ce truc qui clignote !

J'avais un problème similaire sur le T-5R, peut-être la même chose...
Redémarre 2 ou 3 fois et normalement le problème va disparaître (clignotement flèche orange TDB)

Edit : l'avions pas tout dis : le problème venait du capteur de position du sélecteur qui se situe sur la boite directement, et qui est une maladie connue.
L'étape d'après était pour moi impossible de démarrer sans taper quelque peu sur le capteur qui pensait être resté sur autre chose que D ou N interdisant donc le démarrage...
La pièce ne coute je ne sais pas trop cher mais je sais plus combien, si tu veux faire des recherches sur les site anglais cherche avec "PNP switch"

Valà

apres avoir redemarré, pas mieux...


sale temps.....

j'ai trouvé çà, qu'en pensez vous ?

Citation :960 AW30-40 W/E Lights Flashing: Gear Position Sensor PNP Switch Replacement.
PNP Symptoms. If both W and E are flashing and your UP arrow on the dashboard is on, the (in)famous PNP switch is the most likely cause of your symptoms. If you can read error codes, if the code is 313, it is the PNP switch. It is good to shift a couple of times from P to L and back to 'refresh' contact points in PNP. [Rafael Riverol] Usual failure mode is: the PNP switch fails on the highway, AT enters "limp home" mode (fourth gear in D and third L), ATF then overheats, orange arrow and E,S,W lights flash,and ATF smells burnt. OBDI reads missing or shorted PNP signal and overheated ATF.

PNP Diagnosis. Put the trans in PARK. Turn the key to #2. Step on the brake and attempt to shift out of Park. Does it happen? If so, your PNP is working. AW30 PNP Switch, Courtesy FCPGroton

PNP Description. [Query] Does anybody know where the starter inhibitor switch or neutral safety switch is located on the transmission for a 94 960 w/ automatic trans. Also tips on removing it would be much appreciated. I think it is sticking when cold. Starts OK on initial start up for the day, or when warm or hot, but when turned off when cold (anything less than 15 minutes) will not crank. Battery, alt., starter all check out. It seems the trans is not sending the signal to the ignition switch. [Tips from B and Stan Sexton] The PNP or gear position sensor is located on the right side of the transmission case. It slips over the manual linkage shaft and bolts to the case. The wiring routs to the left side of the trans, where it is attached to a short metal rail toward the front of trans. The pigtails are long and the clips are released by squeezing with a needle nose plier from atop the trans pan lip.
Mine gave out at 48,000 miles. When it fails, you will have 3rd gear only and the check engine and tranny dash lights will go on. The switch R&R at a Volvo dealer runs between $300 and $400. I decided to buy the switch from Nils Sefelt Volvo in Houston on the Internet for $110.00 plus $8.00 shipping UPS instead, and do the labor myself. [Tip from JohnG] DO NOT purchase an aftermarket (Scan Tech) switch. Spend the extra $10-$10 and get an OE one.... trust me.

PNP Replacement. [Procedure by Walt Poluszny/John Gislason]

Removing PNP Switch:

1. Do not undertake this until you have the replacement switch in hand: cleaning the old one will not work.
2. Raise the front of the car; jack stands are preferable.
3. Chock wheels and put transmission in Neutral.
4. Apply penetrating oil to the six (4 front, 2 rear)14 mm exhaust pipe nuts.
5. If needed, remove three 10 mm bolts that hold on the O2 Sensor wiring to the trans. cross member.
6. Remove one 10 mm nut and three plastic wire retainers for O2 Sensors on frame above Cat. Conv.
7. Loosen all six 14mm exhaust nuts, drop the rear of the pipe. Remove 3 of the 4 front 14 mm nuts so that 1 nut is still holding the pipes up. Pipe should swing from side to side to make clearance to the PNP switch. [Editor] Plan on rusted nuts which may have to be cut off.
8. If needed, remove two 10 mm nuts & fender washers holding heat shield above Cat. Conv. on
9. If needed, disconnect 17 mm trans. cooler return line on transmission. This line is usually installed very tight and dry. I suggest buying a very good quality flare nut wrench and soaking it 4-6 times overnight with PBlaster or a penetrating oil. Use two wrenches, one on the fitting itself and the other on the nut. You will have to give it a whack to pop it loose then apply teflon tape to the threads when you re-install. [Editor] Some respondents claim this step is not needed.
10. Allow trans fluid to drain from fitting before continuing (approx. 1.5 quarts). Drains slowly, will take about 1/2 hour.
11. Remove 12mm bolt from top of PNP switch. Caution : it is easy to round this nut. It has a small head and is soft. Use a six point socket and take it slow.
12. Pry 4 metal retaining fingers away from 22 mm nut on PNP Switch shaft.
13. Remove 22 mm nut on PNP switch.
14. Evenly pull PNP switch off trans shaft.
15. Cut cable tie above PNP switch on the wiring harness.
16. Clip the remaining three cable ties and loosen the metal retainer on the drivers side of the transmission holding the PNP switch wiring harness
17. The PNP Switch wiring harness is the middle of three wiring connectors attached to the front of the transmission on the driver's side.
18. Slide the middle connector approx. 3/8 inch forward. This will release the connector from the mounting bracket making it easier to separate the two ends.
19. Grip the connectors with both hands ensuring you are squeezing the clips on each side of the connector to release it while pulling the two pieces apart. They are in very tight and will require some force to separate. I had to spray the connector with penentrant to help loosen it.
20. You can now pull the PNP switch out from either side of the transmission.

Installing the New PNP Switch:

1. Install new PNP Switch over the slotted trans shaft and feed wiring harness over the top of the trans to the driver's side.
2. Optional) Add a rubber (neoprene) washer to the 12 mm bold between the PNP switch and the washer so that the bolt won't have to be installed too tight and the switch won't rotate after adjustment. The bolt is soft and has a small head and can easily be stripped so be careful.
3. Add a drop of blue (medium strength) lock-tite to the end of this 12 mm bolt before installing and securing the PNP switch.
4. Install securing washer with 4 small fingers over the slotted shaft and secure with 22 mm nut. Torque to 5 ft. lbs., then bend the fingers over the nut so it can't back off.
5. Adjust PNP switch in one of three ways in order of preference:
1. Use tool 9995475 and align PNP switch such that the fine line is visible thru the slot in the tool. Then tighten 12mm bolt (torque unknown, but it does not need to be too tight because of the rubber washer).
2. Turn ignition on (do not start), put Transmission in Reverse and rotate the PNP switch until the backup lights come on. Rotate switch until the back up lights go back out and center the switch. Then tighten 12mm bolt (torque unknown, but it does not need to be too tight because of the rubber washer).
3. Line up PNP switch such that the indicator line on the switch is vertical and parallel with the slotted trans. shaft (with the trans. In Neutral). Then tighten 12mm bolt (torque unknown, but it does not need to be too tight because of the rubber washer).
6. 6. Add a new wire tie above the PNP switch replacing the on removed earlier. (optional)
7. Reconnect trans. Cooler return line.
8. Install Cat. Conv. heat shield with two 10 mm nuts and fender washers
9. Reconnect exhaust pipes, torque 14 mm flange bolts to 30 ft. lbs, and bolts at the rear of the cat. To 18 ft.lbs.
10. Re-attach one 10 mm nut and three plastic wire retainers for the O2 sensors to the chassis.
11. Re-attach the three 10 mm bolts holding the wiring harness for the O2 sensors to the transmission cross member
12. Plug the new connector to the wiring harness and slide the connector back onto the bracket.
13. Add new wire ties where appropriate to keep wires from chaffing, being sure the new wiring harness is in the metal clip as well.
14. Check all connections for leaks and/or chaffing.
15. Add new ATF fluid to makeup for amount lost. (approx. 1.5 quarts)
16. Start vehicle, check for exhaust and transmission fluid leaks.
17. Back car off of ramps or remove from stands and test drive the car thru all ranges L, 3, D, N, R, P.

An autopsy of the switch reveals it is really a very simple electrical contact switch but subject to moisture and salt contamination .There are numerous springs keeping electrical contact certain. After opening it up, it appears that on one side of the switch, the grease is yellow and looks new, on the middle and right side of the switch it is as black as carbon and a strange texture making me think the knife-slide contacts are arcing and burning the grease. This black 'stuff' finds it's way between the contacts causing a fault. I figure it will fail without warning and need replacing every 4 years.. After replacing the switch, you can reset the tranny light by pulling out fuse # 14 (if I remember right: the drivetrain diagnostics fuse.) The check engine light takes a mechanic with a scan tool to reset. Go to an independent Volvo place and pay him to do it (another $32.00).

PNP Preventive Maintenance? [Rafael Riverol] To avoid such headaches and AT replacements at a cost of several thousand dollars, perhaps maintenance should include PNP overhaul (cleaning the inside electrical parts and regreasing, and perhaps replacing the wire loom or patching it with electrical tape if frayed) when we flush ATF every two or three years. I found I did not have to touch exhaust pipe or ATF line to get to the PNP switch. So it can be overhauled with little trouble, particularly if the car is on a lift, and expense. This would be a good time to clean and repack with dielectric grease AT electrical connectors on the driver side of AT by ATF filler tube.

960/90 Shift Indicator Bulb Replacement. [Peter Penguin] -- Depending on the year, the AW 30 gear shift lever light can be easy or extremely hard to replace. the 1995 (and possibly 1994) have the light bulb mounted in a small square plastic holder (about 1/4 inch square) with two wires about 24 inches long. The bulb is not replaceable by itself (the entire set up is about 20 dollars). There is no discussion in the factory manual how to replace it (or even where the wires go). It is a real pain -This is what you have to do:

* Remove every thing from around the shift unit (this includes both side panels, all of the plastic housings, the ash tray and the fuse unit). See above for tips. Do not try to take apart the shift unit itself.
* Look at the drivers side of the shift unit and you will see two wires (white and yellow) going into the lower part of the middle of the drivers side of the shift unit. pull those wires straight down and the plastic housing and bulb will pop out. The wires themselves loop beneath the fuse unit, then along the passenger side of the shift unit, then beneath the passenger floor mat.
* You will have to have a narrow snake about 12 inches long to feed the wires beneath a heating duct in the left side of the passenger floor (very tight clearance). The connector is on the left side of the passenger compartment about ankle height (below the carpet). Once you find it, it is easy to replace the wires in the housing.
* Feed the new wires back into place.
* Now comes the fun part. The new bulb housing just snuggly fits into a square hole at the bottom of the left side of the shift unit. If you use a mirror you can see it. You have to get it just right (it takes time) and it is a very awkward hand position - but you can do it.
* Now put everything back together. I suppose you could cut the wire just below the fuse unit and splice in the new wires. The bulb is friction welded to the connectors in the plastic housing. I have not yet figured out how to replace just the bulb. I decided to tackle this myself late last year.

apres un nouveau démarrage, voyant éteint...


Bon, ca veut dire a priori que le pnp switch en question donne des signes de faiblesse. A remplacer sans tarder donc.....

meme probleme que toi apres lecture du code defaut chez volvo ils diagnostiquent un pb de positionnement du levier ur mon auto (850) ça a allume ausssi le voyant lambda !

...je suis d'accord avec toi ça fait peur

apres 3 demarrage voyant boite eteint mais lambda s'allume des l'enclenchement sur D

le code defaut a necessite une intervention de VOLVO pour l'annuler

fstadelmann a écrit :apres un nouveau démarrage, voyant éteint...
Bon, ca veut dire a priori que le pnp switch en question donne des signes de faiblesse. A remplacer sans tarder donc.....

bluesmp a reveillé un ancien post. �a m´intéresserais á savoir si finalement t´as remplacé
le pnp switch. Je le nettoyerais seulement

.
.

negatif l'ami, aucune intervention pour le moment, mais je compte demonter et nettoyer le contact cet été.

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